Rustic Charm at Kuroyu Onsen

Get back to basics at this old-fashioned hot spring

Amber Mezbourian Apr 04, 2015 - 2 min read

<p>Kuroyu consists of a ramshackle collection of wooden buildings set deep in the forest. Stunning surroundings, steaming pools and the strong smell of sulphur greet you upon your arrival. Drop your bags in your room and head to the baths!</p>

<p>This traditional thatched building houses a fascinating display of photographs dating back to early last century. Looking at them, you get a sense of how little has changed here since then. Kuroyu offers a truly timeless experience.</p>

<p>A view of Kuroyu from the start of a hiking trail that leads to the summit of nearby Nyuto-san, which translates as 'nipple mountain'. There are a number of hikes you can do in this area, with some stunning views of the surrounding mountains.</p>

<p>This sulphurous pool bubbles in the grounds of Kuroyu, but don't touch the water - it's scalding hot! Water is piped from the source to the different pools, cooling down to a bearable temperature along the way.</p>

<p>Accommodation in the self-catering section is simple and traditional. Rooms are separated by nothing more than sliding paper screens - remember to leave your slippers outside before you step onto the tatami mats.</p>

<p>Wake up to views of the surrounding trees, and go for a morning soak in the baths.</p>

<p>If you're self-catering, it's important to stock up on ingredients before you arrive - there are no supermarkets in the immediate area and it's a long way back down the mountain! Don't forget to bring a bottle of sake to enjoy whilst soaking in the baths.</p>

<p>Steam rises eerily in the early morning light. One of Kuroyu's many charms is just observing how the atmosphere changes depending on the light and time of day.</p>

<p>There's mixed gender bathing available here, as well as separate baths for men and women, so don't be shy! This is the mixed outdoor bath, which is lit up softly at night and is a great place to relax, surrounded by nature.</p>

<p>The water here is sulphurous and will leave your skin feeling silky and smooth. Minerals in the water are said to help soothe conditions from hypertension to arthritis. This is the outdoor women-only bath.</p>

<p>There are a number of bathing options available, including this bath that you sit in whilst a strong stream of water pummels the aches and pains out of your back - perfect at the end of a long day's hiking!</p>

<p>Kuroyu translates as 'black water', but the water here is actually milky white with mineral deposits. Fresh water straight from the source continuously circulates through each of the baths, and has done so for hundreds of years. This is the indoor bath for women.</p>

Kuroyu may not exactly be a secret, but you can be forgiven for feeling as though you’re an intrepid and pioneering explorer as you wind up the mountainside through thick green forest and tumbling streams. Tucked right at the end of the cluster of hot spring resorts collectively known as Nyuto Onsen, Kuroyu is a delightfully ramshackle ryokan with thatched wooden buildings and a collection of simple yet charming baths. There’s even mixed gender bathing available - which is something of a rarity - if you feel like shedding your inhibitions. The hot springs here have been in use since 1674, and as you slip into the silky white water, it’s easy to understand their timeless appeal.

An overnight stay in the ryokan, with two meals included, will set you back at least ¥12,000. However, for travellers on a budget there’s the option of a self-catering plan for the bargain price of around ¥4,000 per person. Bring your own ingredients and cook a tasty dinner in the fully-equipped kitchen, then take a glass of sake out to the baths (accessible twenty four hours a day) and soak the night away under the stars. Rooms are simple and you’ll have to lay out your own futon (bedding is provided), but this has to be one of the best-value ways to get most of the perks of a ryokan experience without breaking the bank.

Kuroyu is open between the end of April to the end of November. Visit kuroyu.com (Japanese) for more details.

Amber Mezbourian @amber.mezbourian

I spent three years living in Japan as an Assistant Language Teacher on the JET Programme, not knowing what to expect but with images of Tokyo, geisha and Mount Fuji in my mind. I was placed in Yamagata prefecture in a small rural town that I couldn't find in any guidebook. I learnt to sno...