The Spirit of Japan is Alive in one Prefecture
Have you heard of the mountain monks that walk on fire, bathe in waterfalls, and transverse sacred mountains? Historically called yamabushi, these ascetic monks are still around, especially in Fukui which serves as the gate to Haku-san, one of the three sacred mountains of Japan.
In the West, we’ve often mistakenly depicted yamabushi as sohei (warrior monks) but the bushi in yamabushi doesn’t mean warrior, it’s a different kanji meaning prostrate or bow. When the kanji are together it means bowing to the mountains or one who prostrates before the mountains. Yamabushi are used to people being confused, historically they were likened to the mountain dwelling spirit, Tengu which is usually depicted wearing the clothes of the mountain ascetics.
What is Shugendo?
Yamabushi are practioners of Shugendo, a unique syncretism of Esoteric Buddhism, Shinto, and Taoism. These days, Shugendo practitioners are usually tied to the Shingon or Tendai sect. Takidanji is a notable Shingon temple in Mikuni, Sakai City, Fukui. Founded in 1375, most of the temple structures, however, date back to the Edo Period. Shugendō is an ascetic tradition based on the belief that enlightenment is attained through enduring hardship.
Takigyo Waterfall Meditation
Waterfall meditation or Waterfall training is something we've all seen in anime. Usually it's a martial arts practitioner that hones their art through takigyo. Think Zoro from One Piece or Tanjiro from Demon Slayer. In Shugendo however, waterfall meditation is a way to purify the mind, body and spirit.
Fire Walking Hiwatari
Test your courage and the soles of your feet in this daring fire walking festival held every year on June 15th at Takidanji Temple. Anyone can participate! What's great about spiritualism in Fukui is how open and accepting the people are. Your participation is always welcome.
Horagai
Horagai conch shells were historically used to signal their location to other yamabushi while out in the mountains. Conch shells are also used to accompany sutras and rituals. There is something ancient and primeval about instruments made from animals. In fact, conch shells are one of the oldest forms of instrument with a history of 15,000 years!
Heisenji
The great Heisenji temple that once housed 10,000 monks was founded by one such Shugendo mountain monk. His name was Taicho and he is believed to be the first person to reach the summit of Hakusan in 717 AD. Heisenji Temple may be gone but the spirit of the monks live on in the locals and yearly pilgrimages to Hakusan are carried out every year.
Kuji-in 九字印
Kuji-in or the Nine Hand Seals far precede the 2000's hit anime Naruto and play a key role in Shugendo. They are accompanied by an incantation. The purpose? To cast spells of protection or wards against evil by connecting and channeling the deity associated with the hand gesture. While the incantations originate in Taoism, many of the hand gestures were likely developed by Shugendo practitioners in Japan. Kuji-in is also tied to Onmyōdo, a Taoist, Shinto influenced divination and magic system.
Mudras from the Hindu tradition, not to be confused with Kuji-in, also play a part in Esoteric Buddhism, helping practitioners channel energy and connect with a particular aspect of Buddha. Each gesture is tied to an emanation of Buddha or Bodhisattva, representing its nature and function.
