Ebina in Kanagawa is a small town, probably most notable as the terminus for the Sotetsu line from Yokohama, and the crossing point for the Odakyu Odawara and the JR East Sagami line. They have a decent mall, a couple of movie theaters, and it’s a growing urban area surrounded by rice paddies and a gorgeous vista of the Tanzawa mountain range to the west. It is near both the Zama and Atsugi US military camps, so it is not uncommon to see Americans here shopping and loafing around. Tucked away around the corner from the mall and the station, you’ll find a funny ramen shop with an unmistakably strong pork smell, and some serious looking Japanese businessmen soaking up their booze with noodles before heading home.
Nanden Kanden (なんでんかんでん) is a tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen chain with a nice outlet in Ebina. The second thing you notice (after the aroma) as you approach the building is a goofy lifesize cutout of the owner so you can pose with him before you tuck in. Inside, if you can read Japanese or if you have a guide, you can order broth with more or less fat, noodles cooked to varying degrees of softness, extra noodles, slow cooked egg, extra pork, and other toppings. But, if you are a early student of Nihongo like myself, you point to one of the lines on the menu that says Ramen (ラーメン) and hope for the best. In any case, unless you are picky, you can’t go wrong. The broth is oily and salty, cloudy and milky, and the taste is rich and satisfying. Unlike the strong porky smell, the flavor of the broth is balanced and hearty. The noodles are thin (as typically served with tonkotsu), firm, and chewy. The roasted pork is delicious-meaty, not too fatty, and smoky in flavor without being tough or mushy. Additionally, the slow cooked eggs have a bright rich yolk, and the seaweed is cleverly printed with the name of the shop. Table side toppings include whole garlic cloves with a garlic press, ginger, and a chili/sesame paste for an extra kick or two. The staff will happily bring you extra noodles to soak up any remaining broth, and it shouldn’t be hard to show your appreciation by draining your bowl. The price too, is good. I spent just 1010 yen on a bowl of soup and a beer. Not bad! Thanks Nanden Kanden!
