Most travelers who come to Kumamoto's top-rated hot springs town of Kurokawa Onsen splurge and spend the night in a ryokan, where the staff feed invariably serve up some of the region's most sumptuous cuisine. For day trippers, the options are a bit more limited. Yet those with a hearty appetite should look no further than Tofu Kissho, conveniently located just across the street from the town's main tourism information center.
Tofu Kissho's low thatched-roof building holds 10 tables in a large tatami mat room, enough to accommodate around 30-40 diners. Come noon, especially on weekends, these tables are always all taken and on holidays a line often extends out the door. The draw? The restaurant serves its own handmade tofu, not just in blocks but in various preparations such as soup, salad and slathered on objects in the dengaku style.
The best way to taste everything is to order one of the set meals. Three main options are available - the plum (梅) set is ¥1600, the bamboo (竹) set is ¥2100 and the pine (松) set is the largest and most expensive at ¥3000. I chose the plum set and found it to be more than filling. All diners (even children who don't order a separate set) are treated to a bowl of homemade tofu infused with shiso as a free appetizer before the meal. That was followed by blocks of tofu - both regular and yuzu flavored - that were simmered in a nabe pot on the table in front of us. These held us over until the set arrived - the full meal itself included tofu salad, tofu skin filled with simmered vegetables, pickles, miso soup, sweet beans and skewers of tofu and konnyaku slathered with a delicious miso peanut sauce.
If you're not feeling up to a full set, Tofu Kissho also orders a la carte choices, ranging from agedashi tofu to boiled tofu to tofu steak. There is even tofu ice cream for dessert!
For drivers, there is a small parking lot next to the restaurant itself. It is also possible to park across the street in the main lot for the Kurokawa Onsen Tourism Office. All parking in Kurokawa Onsen is free.
