Ryokan Sanjiro's sign looks like the hand writing you might expect from a kappa (Photo: Hiroyuki Ishii)

Bathing with the Kappa

At Togatta Hot Spring's Sanjiro Ryokan

Ryokan Sanjiro's sign looks like the hand writing you might expect from a kappa (Photo: Hiroyuki Ishii)
Justin Velgus   - 2 min read

Togatta Onsen, located in the southwest of Miyagi Prefecture, is a hot spring town located in the Zao mountain range. Through the middle of town flows the Matsu River (松川), with lines of hotels and ryokan on either side. Allow me to share the hot spring locals believe kappa (river sprites) once bathed in. It is located inside Ryokan Sanjiro (旅館三治郎).

The changing rooms are spacious. There are many lockers, all of which can be locked. I don't usually care about changing areas, but this one was particularly well kept and clean, so it left a good impression with me. The ryokan is doing its best to keep the customers happy.

I soon entered the bath with little delay. There were two other bathers, but they were using the outside bath. The indoor bath seems large enough to fit over ten people. The water is a muddy color, odorless, and a little hot. Alongside the bath are 10 washing stations. They all include showers, and are stocked with shampoo, body soap, and conditioner. Also in the indoor onsen area is a sauna and a cold bath. The outdoor rotenburo bath offers a superb view of the Zao mountain range. Relax and enjoy the experience, interrupted only by brief cool downs at the washing stations. This hot spring is truly one of the best in Togatta.

After getting out of the bath, I was compelled to buy my favorite drink, coffee milk. There are vending machines there selling it and various other drinks, so I was happy I could satisfy my craving.

Despite the legend of the kappa having at one time used this hot spring, I didn't have that feeling while enjoying my stay. For 900 yen, it a great onsen experience.

Justin Velgus

Justin Velgus @justin.velgus

Justin Velgus (ジャスティン ベルガス) is the Miyagi Prefecture expert for Japan Travel and a long-term contributor since 2012 with a focus on the Tohoku region.  Justin has written extensively for JT, and other publications such as VisitMiyagi and Sake Today, amassing over 350 published articles...