When you ask someone in Japan about Toshogu Shrine, you will probably first be directed to a famous Nikko shrine. However, there are actually Toshogu shrines throughout Japan, and a lovely one right here in Sendai. A Toshogu Shinto shrine can be any shrine established for the purpose of enshrining the spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu, once the supreme ruler of Japan and creator of the Tokugawa shogunate (feudal government).
Just a four-minute train ride from Sendai Station to Toshogu Station via the Senzan Line, then a 5 minute walk, brings you to your destination. Sendai was founded by Lord Date Masamune four hundred years ago. His clan and succession of 13 lords ruled the north and protected it against invasions from the south during the warring period. The second son of Masamune, Date Tadamune, is responsible for building Sendai's Toshogu Shrine during his rule. Although the real life Tokugawa Ieyasu had long since passed before Tadamune was even born, Ieyasu's spirit was said to guide the clan. To honor their guardian deity, a magnificent shrine was constructed.
Passing through a stone tori gate, the walkway leads up to a manageable staircase towards the wooden gate. On either side are stone lanterns. While some trees slightly obscure the front of the gate, take a look behind you after passing through to really appreciate the intricate decorative wooden carvings. Several shrine buildings are located on the raised ground. All of the buildings are well kept and complement their natural surroundings of towering trees. Many structures here have been designated as official cultural properties for the prefecture. Spring time brings cherry blossoms to the area.
To make the trip even more worthwhile, stop by the shrine on the last Sunday of a month. During these times an antique fair takes place. This is not a flea market. You won't find junk or items of low quality (unless they are priced to move). There are about fifteen vendors. While the free admission market is advertised from 7am to 3pm, I can assure you that you should arrive on the earlier side. A friend living nearby informed me that they set up stalls starting at 5am. Also I arrived late one time and vendors were packing up to leave at 1 pm. If you want to find a bargain, or just see many interesting and historical items before they fly off the shelves, try to arrive before 11am.
At the market, you can find fine china, textiles, furniture, and many knick-knacks. You are bound to see some of the famous tansu chests produced in Sendai and around other areas in Tohoku. After chatting with a vendor, I discovered black finished tansu chests tend to be from Yamagata prefecture while the Sendai version are usually given a dark brown finish. Next I indulged in a personal hobby and joined some elderly Japanese men to dig through boxes of old Japanese coins. I picked up several coins that are over a hundred years old for less than 500yen (about five to six US dollars)! It's a great opportunity to learn about Japanese culture and practice Japanese. I found everyone friendly and while some vendors did not list prices, I found them fair. Don't expect vendors to understand English. Perhaps prices could be written on paper or use gestures to communicate. One thing I discovered is it seems in Japan a friendly smile can help you get a great bargain.
If you are looking for history, great architecture, and maybe even some shopping if you arrive on the right day, Sendai Toshogu Shrine is your calling.
