As the plane makes its final approach to Izumo over Lake Shinji, sweeping views of misty, rolling mountains appear through the window. The Sea of Japan and the Oki Islands shimmer in the distance. Mist hovers above terracotta-tiled roofs dotting the patchwork of roads and rice fields surrounding the airport. As I arrive in Izumo, I am excited to experience a timeless Japan beyond by the rush of the modern metropolis.
I like to think I know Japan decently well. After almost a decade working and studying here, I assumed I had a decent sense of its history and spiritual geography—but arriving in Shimane quickly humbled me. There is such a depth of culture and so many incredible stories to discover here. Izumo is perfect for travelers seeking the cultural depth and history of regions like Kyoto or Kanazawa without the accompanying crowds. The region offers a chance to experience Japan’s mythological and creation stories while exploring a beautiful place where nature, craftsmanship, and spirituality remain deeply intertwined. In the current era of algorithmically curated travel, visiting Izumo is a breath of fresh air.
Izumo Taisha and Mythological Landscapes
Our journey began with a visit to one of Japan’s most renowned shrines, Izumo Taisha, dedicated to the deity Ōkuninushi, the deity of connection and relationships. People across Japan come here to pray for positive bonds of every kind. Approaching the shrine, the grand scale quickly becomes apparent long before you reach the main hall. I felt as though I had entered a different dimension of the country — older, quieter, and somehow more profound.
Having a deeply knowledgeable guide to explain the history brought the stories to life. We talked about the stories and meaning behind shrine architecture, statues, and worship practices. Being able to ask questions and dive deeper into the subjects I personally find interesting was one of the highlights of the experience.
Our guide explained that archaeological excavations undertaken by the shrine revealed traces of colossal wooden pillars. These pillars once supported a building nearly fifty meters high, suggesting that the ancient shrine towered over the land. Looking around at the surrounding mountains, I imagined the ancient Izumo Taisha as a bridge between heaven and earth. Its scale and age reflect Izumo’s historical role as a spiritual heartland predating even the rise of Kyoto and Nara.
As we walk around the shrine, more stories come to life. Standing before the enormous shimenawa rope decorating the kaguraden and looking up at the stained glass windows, it is easy to imagine why all of Japan’s gods are said to gather here during Kamiarizuki.
During the visit to Izumo Taisha, people also go to the nearby beach Inasa no Hama to collect sand here to bring to the shrine for prayers. Inasa no Hama is one of Japan’s most spiritually significant beaches, where legend says the gods of the entire nation arrive each year during Kamiarizuki. Visitors can walk along its wide, windswept shore framed by rugged cliffs.
Benten-jima shrine stands on a rocky outcrop surrounded by pooling tides in the middle of the sandy beach. Locals have a holiday to reenact the gods’ arrival each autumn, making Inasa no Hama not only a place of natural beauty but also a rare glimpse into the connection between Japan’s living traditions and spiritual mythology. Even without the ceremony taking place, the powerful rolling waves felt charged with meaning.
Pilgrimage Streets and Coastal Wonders
After returning to the shrine, we enjoyed a nice stroll along Shinmon Street in kimono robes after selecting from hundreds of fabrics. Travelers have enjoyed coming here to eat, rest, and shop during their pilgrimages to Izumo Taisha for hundreds of years. We attended a Herbal Tea Workshop discovering the Izumo region’s traditional medicinal herbs. After an explanation by the teahouse owner regarding the use and flavor of each local plant, we created our own herbal tea blend recipes to take home. We rested while enjoying a locally sourced organic meal served with our own herbal infusions. For dessert, we enjoyed the famous local matcha soft serve while browsing local crafts in the shops next door.
From Izumo Taisha shrine we head to the scenic Hinomisaki coast to enjoy the panoramic views from Japan’s tallest stone Lighthouse and savor some local seafood.
Following the coastline westward from Izumo Taisha, the land rises toward Hinomisaki, a dramatic point where the sea crashes endlessly into black volcanic rock. Hinomisaki Lighthouse is Japan’s tallest stone lighthouse and the largest masonry lighthouse in East Asia, designed by a French architect in 1898. It's the perfect place to enjoy panoramic views of the Sea of Japan and the mythological island home of Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess.
We stop to savor some freshly caught squid and shellfish at a nearby Top 100 guide listed seafood restaurant. For SCUBA enthusiasts, the coast also features an underwater archaeological site believed to be a submerged shrine. I make a note on my map so that I know where to come back to dive next spring. Afterwards, we visit the vivid red Hinomisaki Shrine to see the home of Amaterasu and Susanoo, important deities in the creation stories of Shinto.
Staying at Kararako Ryokan, quietly nestled on the shopping street near Izumo Taisha, offers an exceptional experience that feels like settling into the rhythm of the town. The design blends traditional design elements using local materials with contemporary art and luxurious comfort.
As we check in, an adorable little robot greets guests in the lobby alongside the always helpful staff. In the evening and for breakfast, Kaiseki meals are prepared with seasonal ingredients representing the abundance of nearby rivers, Shinji Lake, the Sea of Japan, and the forested mountains.
Staying at Kararako so close to Izumo Taisha gives the opportunity for guests to walk to the shrine in the soft morning light, while the empty grounds make the atmosphere even more profoundly special. The accommodation is a part of Izumo’s quiet, refreshing charm.
Elegant Stays and Artful Journey
After our kaiseki breakfast we make our way to the Adachi Museum of Art. Named Japan’s top garden for 22 years in a row, the Museum’s architecture and the collection held within represents the pinnacle of human creative expression and harmony with the natural landscape. Being an agriculturalist and hobby gardener, I was moved by the absolute perfection and beauty of the gardenscape.
The museum merges the landscape, art, and architecture into a masterpiece. As I admire the calligraphy, ceramics, and modern paintings amidst views of the meticulously composed garden, I notice an artificial waterfall cascading from a mountain behind the gardens. The museum guide explained that the waterfall is inspired by one of the sumi-e scroll paintings in the collection.
At first I was surprised that such an excellent collection would be located this far away from major cities. After our guide explained more about Izumo’s history as a flourishing trading city, it began to make sense why so much culture and art can exist in rural Shimane.
After some time exploring the museum, we stopped to enjoy a Kaiseki style lunch at Ryokan Chikuyo.The plant based meal reflects the seasons and locality, a chance to recover and reflect on the museum pieces. Each dish reflects the philosophy of mindful eating and gratitude for nature’s bounty. I relax and enjoy the atmosphere of eating at a Japanese inn in a tatami room decorated with yoroi armor and paintings of samurai. It’s a refreshing break from the fast-paced urban lifestyle.
Seeing the museum motivated us to create some one of a kind art pieces of our own. We reached out to fourth-generation master dyer Amano Konya to visit his workshop. He uses a hirose kasuri technique carefully weaving fabric with century old looms and then hand-dying with indigo. The textile style is recognized as an intangible cultural property by Shimane prefecture.
Amano-san offers classes and hands-on experiences to learn his fermentation-based indigo dyeing method using natural bacteria.
You can bring your own garment to dye, enjoying a rare hands-on encounter at Izumo’s last remaining traditional indigo dye studio. The tubs of deep indigo dye bubble softly like living creatures as we dip shirts in over and over to create a layered dye effect. It feels great to take home a handmade, fashionable souvenir of our time in Izumo and learn a new skill in the process.
Divine Roots and Lasting Impressions
After packing up our new garments, we also make a visit to the historically significant Suga Shrine. It is believed to be Japan’s first shrine and the legendary site where the gods Susanoo and Kushinadahime were married after he defeated the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi. The shrine’s tranquil forest setting and centuries-old cedar trees create a peaceful, sacred atmosphere. There is an optional two kilometer hike from the main shrine hall into the forest to see sacred boulders. Visitors often come to collect the shrine's unique omamori charms, said to bring lasting love and good fortune. Visiting this shrine offers a quiet, authentic glimpse into Japan’s earliest myths and the origins of divine union.
We go by the beautiful Matsue Castle on the way to the airport for our flight to Tokyo. The striking black-and-white walls of Matsue Castle rise above the heart of the city and provide scenic views over the town, Lake Shinji, and the surrounding mountains. As one of only a dozen original surviving castles in Japan, it offers a rare opportunity to experience an authentic Edo era castle.
My time in Shimane left me with a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japan beyond just the usual excitement of travel. Shimane is a place where history, spirituality, and everyday life feel inseparable. It reminded me how many corners of Japan still hold interesting stories that haven’t been over-told and authentic experiences not polished for mass tourism. Given that popular places in major destinations like Tokyo and Kyoto are becoming overcrowded and inauthentic, taking the road less traveled offers a more genuine and enjoyable experience.
Shimane reminds me of what first drew me to Japan years ago. I genuinely hope more people make the journey out here. Not because Shimane needs to be “discovered,” but because experiences like this have a way of grounding you, reconnecting you, and staying with you long after you’ve flown home.
