Japan is a country enriched with deep spiritual traditions, most notably in the form of Buddhism and Shinto, the two main religions which intertwine and define many aspects of Japanese culture. Visitors to Japan seeking a taste of enlightenment can of course visit the country’s many sacred temples and shrines, and in recent years there has been an increasing interest in overnight temple stays, where guests can mingle with monks, enjoy vegetarian and vegan-friendly temple cuisine - called shojin-ryori - and join in activities such as Zen meditation and early morning prayers.
The mountain-top temple town of Koya-san in Wakayama Prefecture is probably the most well-known place in Japan for temple lodgings and retreats, but a small countryside town in Yamanashi Prefecture called Minobu is seeking to change that. Less than 3 hours by train from Tokyo and roughly 18km west of Mt. Fuji, this traditional and easy-to-reach temple town with a 750 year-old history is becoming a hub for foreign visitors who are looking for a quiet and spiritual escape from the chaos of the city.
Minobu nestles in a beautiful secluded valley along the meandering Fuji River, and is perhaps best known for Kuon-ji, the magnificent head temple of the Nichiren sect of Buddhism. The town is also unique for embracing the concept of ‘Albergo Diffuso’, a concept of local revitalisation which involves utilising old homes and vacant buildings as accommodation, creating the idea of the whole area as a hotel. Among the town’s various lodging options are a number of small temples offering overnight stays, known as shukubo. One of the most popular is Kakurinbo, a sub-temple of Kuon-ji and founded around 550 years ago. It is a wonderful and tranquil place to spend a night or two, boasting comfortable Japanese-style private quarters (with shared bathrooms), a stunning Japanese garden, and it is the only accommodation in town with its own hot spring baths for guests. Dinner and breakfast consist of shojin ryori - traditional Buddhist cuisine which is entirely vegetarian, incorporating a wide variety of seasonal and delicious local ingredients, and for many people a real highlight of their stay. Guests can participate in a number of unique cultural activities, including meditation sessions, kimono wearing, morning yoga, cooking classes, calligraphy and other crafts, and a nightly matsuri experience which brings some of the energy of a local festival to the temple!
Around Minobu there is a lot to see and do for visitors too. The highlight is undoubtedly Kuon-ji, the sprawling temple complex at the foot of Mt. Minobu. Founded in 1282 by Nichiren Daishonin, Kuon-ji is the headquarters of the Nichiren sect, and is home to Buddhist treasures, a five-storied pagoda and various impressive gates and buildings, including the hondo (main hall) with its magnificent dragon painting on the ceiling - its eyes are said to follow you around as you walk, overseeing and protecting the hall. Early morning visitors have chance to witness the ringing of the enormous bell - a feat which requires the full bodyweight of the ringer - and the dawn morning service is accompanied by the beating of drums, creating a mystical atmosphere. All are welcome, so it is worth getting up early for.
A short walk beyond the temple is the Minobusan Ropeway, which runs all year and whisks passengers up close to the summit of Mt. Minobu in seven minutes, boasting the highest elevation difference of any ropeway in the Kanto region. From the summit station at 1,153m there are panoramic views of Mt. Fuji and other mountain ranges, and it is just a short stroll to Okunoin Shishinkaku, a sacred temple lined with grand cedar trees at the top of the mountain.
Back down in the town, Cafe Zencho is a quaint and cosy place to stop for a bite to eat - it serves light meals such as pasta and curry, and includes tasty vegan options. The adjacent traditional Japanese house has been lovingly renovated and is a fantastic accommodation option for larger groups.
Minobu is a town packed with rural charm and a deep sacred history, and for those looking for a foreigner-friendly temple lodging experience not too far from Tokyo, there are few better choices.
