It is a fine line between pleasure and pain, so goes the song from the Divinyls. At this modern bathhouse, you have a choice as to where you want to draw the line.
Last week I met some first time visitors to Japan who were a bit reluctant about stripping off and parading naked in front of total strangers, let alone with the pleasure of being boiled alive in a big barrel. I jokingly said that while the first five times may be uncomfortable, the sixth time may be reasonable, and by the seventh time, you actually enjoying the Japanese communal baths.
Actually, you shouldn’t fear your initiation into public bathing, and you can actually enjoy it unconsciously from your first or second time.
At Kyo Ayabe Hotel’s Daikazokunoyu onsen or hot springs, you have a choice. Whether your idea of comfort is 38C or 41C, they have a variety of baths at different temperatures to suit your preference. If you are worried about the temperature, just dip your finger first. Unlike a ryokan where there is only one bath which could be too hot for your tastes, hot springs or onsens have multiple baths that lets you personalise your experience.
The highlight here is the outdoor baths. With a modern infinity like edge, it looks something straight from a resort. The clean lines and minimalist monochrome decor invites you to sink into a state of deep relaxation. The view beyond the green hedge is of green valleys and mountains in the horizon, and if you are here in winter, the steam rising from the hot springs, combined with the snow topped mountains and a dusting of snow in the township makes for a magical sight.
The outdoor baths is so inviting that you may be tempted to swim in it, but this is strictly for soaking. It makes it easier to admire the views that way. However, if you prefer to exercise, try the 15m walking bath, where you can stretch yourself along the perimeter.
To be truly cleansed in Japan, I recommend you take the “skin scrub.” Maybe they should call it skin burn, because it is how it feels sometimes. While my masseur took personal delight in showing me how hard she worked by showing me all the dead skin she rubbed off, you definitely feel like a new person afterwards. In the Kansai area, there are a number of spas and onsens that will reinvigorate you from top to bottom, such as the Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa and the Nobeha no yu in Osaka.
The Kyo Ayabe Hotel onsen is just under 2 kilometers south-east of the railway station. From the south exit, it is 7 minutes by bus going towards the Omachi bus terminal (大町バスターミナル). As the buses only run once an hour, it may be easier to take a taxi.
