The sleepy islands of the Setouchi Inland Sea, with its sunny climate and gentle lifestyle, is a magnet for sea changers from the big city looking for a way to reconnect with nature and the warmth of the locals. In 2013, Yoshida-san decided to pack her bags and move here from Tokyo, and after renovating a 50 year old traditional house in the fishing village of Ieura, turned it to Mizutamaya Café. Part Gallery, part bike hire store and community hub, it is a dream come true for her and for the visitors who stumble across this charming home away from home.
As you take off your shoes at the door and get comfortable wandering through the various tatami mat rooms, you will also take a trip back in time, with solid black rotary phones and intricate wooden detailing vying for your attention.
There are also elements of Tokyo fashion here with little homely touches that would not look out of place in a home decoration magazine for fashionable people in their twenties. Hawaiian ukuleles, miniature sailor and daruma Japanese folk dolls, along with cosmos colored lanterns strategically placed to catch your attention. Their affection for Andy Warhol’s palette of spring pastels extend to their rental bicycle collection as well as the simple Pop art screen print bags which brings an element of a community art gallery store. The candy polka dot themes are also evocative of the Yayoi Kusama’s sculptures which you will find in abundance in neighboring Naoshima.
To relax, lounge on one of the sofas facing the courtyard or Japanese style zabuton seating in one of two tatami mat rooms, overlooking an olive grove. Just watch your head if you are over 6 foot, as some of the doorways can be lower than that. Next to the courtyard window, an old CD Walkman plays some music from the movie lost in translation. There are lots of items for sale, including homemade jams and CDs which have handwritten reviews by the two ladies.
This cafe reminds me of a girl who played shop when she was little but never grew up; such is the simplicity of the menu revolving around popular mainstream treats like bagels. The service is polite and discreet. Don't be deceived however by the homely decoration and spotted aprons, everything here has been though out and celebrates the best of Tokyo innovation and local produce. Organic as well as all natural ingredients are showcased in their menu, such as Teshima citrus. Their signature miniature bagels with cream cheese are crispy and well toasted with a fresh and airy centre, lovingly made with soy milk and natural yeast found a stone's throw from Shirakami Sanchi National Park.
Another local fruit making an appearance is Hassaku, a citrus born of mandarins and grapefruit. It makes a refreshing cordial served hot or with carbonated soda water. The cane sugar in the cordial masks the bitterness of the grapefruit, tasting a bit like lemon squash. Its zesty fragrance is so delightful you want to bottle it. Actually, you can. It is called the Zen for Men - White Heat Edition by Shiseido. You never know where next discovery is going to come from.
Postscript - Mizutamaya closed in 2016. Alternative cafes include Teshima Nomado, while there is a bike hire stall just after the ferry terminal on the right side.
