A year living in France long ago left me with a lifelong love of the savory pancakes known as galettes to Francophones. Surprisingly, a tiny eatery near Mt Aso satisfied my crepe cravings when I lived in Kumamoto prefecture, but it wasn't until I stumbled across Au Temp Jadis that I found somewhere in Tokyo that measured up.
Au Temps Jadis is tucked away in a stone-walled basement north of Shibuya. Rather than feeling like a dank hole-in-the-wall, the bright trim, red-checkered tablecloths and sunny terrace make visitors feel that the space is twice the size of its actual dimensions. The restaurant has attempted to pack the interior space with a few too many tables though, which wouldn't be much of an issue if this weren't a favorite of both locals and visitors in the know. As a result, you can expect to rub elbows with your fellow diners during busy periods.
The menu at Au Temps Jadis offers both savory galettes - made with buckwheat flour - and sweet crepes. On the savory side, flavors tend to run very much toward the typical offerings seen in France - egg, egg and cheese, and the addition of ham or tomato to the above ingredients comprise some of the more popular galettes. I personally chose one of the specials chalked onto the board that hangs near the kitchen and enjoyed a delightful combination of local spinach and tangy gorgonzola cheese. For dessert, the choices range from one or two fillings (sugar, chocolate, jam, etc) to multiple flavors (chocolate, banana, cream).
Most of the savory crepes range from about ¥1000 to ¥1500. The sweeter crepes are slightly cheaper, with a few options under ¥1000. For lunch, the restaurant offers a combination lunch (a galette, a crepe and a drink) but the choices of flavors are limited. On the plus side, the set menu does include (if you so choose) a cup of the Brittany region's famous alcoholic apple cider.
Au Temps Jadis can be a little tough to track down, though using the map app on your phone is quite helpful. Diners should be aware that the restaurant is in the rear of a large building, and signs at the corner of the main road will point you to the entrance at the back of the alley. The eatery is about an 8-10 minute walk from the north side of Shibuya station.
