Fresh ebi--Hanako serves good seafood (Photo: Hanako)

Is Hanako the Hooters of Japan? [Closed]

Izakaya specializes in seafood and waitresses

Fresh ebi--Hanako serves good seafood (Photo: Hanako)
Mackenzie Scott   - 3 min read

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Last updated: Nov 15, 2020

Prior to our visit to Hanako, allegedly the first restaurant of its particular genre in Japan, there was much discussion (and not a little chortling) about the concept behind this popular izakaya. What is the concept? Well, Hanako is often referred to as the Hooters of Japan (or according to the manager, Hooters is the Hanako of America), with scantily-clad young women serving food and drinks to a predominantly male clientele.

While women are not discouraged from being customers, they are decidedly rare ("maybe 1%" was the manager's estimate). I was told to bring my girlfriend on my next visit, and I am sure she would enjoy chatting with the gregarious waitresses, who I can't help thinking would share the fun of the performance with her. The Hanako waitresses are like actresses, operating on a different level from the doe-eyed (heh-heh) male patrons. It's all for show, right?

And quite a show it is. Whether real or not, the staff are attentive and flirtatious, and many are apparently working part-time at Hanako while trying to catch a break in modeling or acting. Dealing with an adoring public could be good training. Customers can press a magic button on the table to beckon these future stars and wannabes for some social interaction whenever the mood strikes―much easier for the socially awkward or non-serious than a regular bar scene. I was told that misbehavior is rare, and that intoxicated gropers invariably bow deeply and apologize when told they have crossed the line.

What about the food, you ask? Surprisingly good for a restaurant with such a blatantly non-gastronomic raison d'être. The first Hanako opened six years ago and based its menu on the founder's Hokkaido hometown fare. Each of the 29 locations across the country proudly specialize in a healthy selection of fresh seafood from Japan's northern waters. We tried a bunch of different things on the ¥3980 course menu, which included all-you-can-drink for two hours. The salmon hotpot was my favorite, and I enjoyed everything I ate.

I would recommend Hanako for a fun night out in a group, regardless of gender. I've seen nothing like this in North America or Europe, as Hanako definitely has more of a playful atmosphere than the strip-club vibe I would imagine at a similar restaurant back home. Birthday parties can be especially memorable:

Interestingly, the chain is making a push to attract more foreign customers these days. In the past they discouraged non-Japanese-speakers from entering due to their lack of English menus and support, but they have now gone so far as to create a clever translation card to help English-speaking tourists both order and chat up the servers.

A few points to consider when you go:

- There is a 10% service charge added to the bill at the end of the evening.

- The otoshi (snack-food "dropped" in front of you when you first sit down) at Hanako costs ¥500, which seems steep, but it consists of all-you-can-eat edamame!

- Photos are frowned upon inside Hanako, apparently due to some of the waitresses having modeling contracts (though I suspect it is also to keep over-eager patrons in check).

- By Japanese law the girls are not permitted to sit down at the tables with customers.

Mackenzie Scott

Mackenzie Scott @khed

It's better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.(Mark Twain)