Kurokawa Noh Performance

Amazing show accessible by few lucky people

By Alena Eckelmann    - 4 min read

Once a year at the beginning of February a big Noh festival takes place in Kurokawa, a small village in Yamagata Prefecture. The two Noh groups of the village, Kami-za and Shimo-za, perform Noh a whole night long.

There are said to be 200 performers, all male, including kyogen (interlude players) and hayashi (musicians). They are all from Kurokawa village and they range in age from children to the elderly. About 500 households are engaged in Kurokawa Noh in some form or another.

Most of the male inhabitants who live in this village are involved with Noh and the tradition is being passed on from one generation to the next since Japan's Edo Period.

This Noh tradition is so unique that in 1976 Kurokawa Noh became an Intangible Cultural Asset. The uniqueness consists of an ancient style of performances and repertoire in the Kurokawa tradition.

These performers are not professionals but people from the village who have other occupations. However, Noh plays an important part in their lives and preparing the Noh performances is part of their identity of being a member of the Kurokawa community.

The Noh tradition in Kurokawa is closely linked to Kasuga Shrine located in the village. Originally farmers of the village, and also parishioners of Kasuga Shrine, started performing Noh in order to support the shrine. The guardian god of Kurokawa Noh is actually enshrined at Kasuga Shrine and the performances are held in honor of this guardian god.

It might be difficult for foreigners to know what exactly is going but the mysterious atmosphere in the traditional house lit only by candles and the spectacle on stage cast a spell over spectators who keep their eyes fixed on stage, hour after hour, for a whole night long.

Kurokawa Noh is not for people who seek light and fast entertainment of a superficial nature. The performances here go deep and they connect you with a long tradition in this particular community in Yamagata.

You can totally loose yourself in the haunting tunes of the Japanese flute, interspersed with the dong dong of the drums, the strange guttural sounds made by players and their feet stomping on the wooden floor for accent.

I was most impressed by the masks that the players are wearing. Putting on a Noh mask is a ritual in itself and it seems like the players are literally putting on a different persona, be it that of a deity or of a demon.

In the candlelight borders of reality and play become blurred leaving you with a feeling that you get a glimpse of something you cannot quite describe. Fascinating, memorable and totally worth the struggle to get a ticket

Short definition of Noh:

Noh is a form of classical Japanese theater performed on a wooden stage set indoors or outdoors. Performers, all men, wear stylized costumes and elaborate masks and the plays presented are based on famous tales from Japanese history. The typically involve deities, humans, ghosts and demons in a tale set in ancient Japan. Noh traces its origin back to sacred dances performed as part of Shinto rituals and at Kurokawa this link is still strong. There are four types of performers called shite, waki, kyogen and hayashi. Shite is the principal character and waki is shite's counterpart. These two perform the main Noh plays. Kyogen perform interludes, also called kyogen, between the main Noh plays, and hayashi are the instrumentalists who sit at the side and accompany the plays with flute and drum melodies. There are at least 250 standard plays, which are divided into five categories of plays. Overall, Noh is very ritualized and codified similar to other traditional Japanese arts. ​

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Alena Eckelmann

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Born East of the Wall and South of Berlin, I am celebrating my 15th year anniversary in Japan in May 2020, the country that I call home now. I lived in crazy Tokyo for 6 years and since 2011 I call the beautiful Kii Peninsula (Kumano, Koyasan and Yoshinoyama) my home.I have been a JapanTravel Partner since the conception of the platform in 2011! In Tokyo I worked in market research at AIP Corporation and in business education at JMEC. For the last 10 years I have been a guide for foreign visitors at Venture Japan, on top of being a Freelance Writer and a Business Researcher. Apart from work, I trained at the Yoshinkan Aikido Dojo and at the Oedo Sukeroku Taiko Dojo for several years each, and I ran the 1st Tokyo Marathon and enjoyed cycling around Tokyo. During the last 10 years I am working with local authorities to improve their hospitality to foreign visitors and I have participated in many monitors as a media representative. My current interest is in Japanese nature and spirituality. I love spending time in the forest and mountains, and I love visiting temples and shrines. I am a licensed guide for the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails and for Koyasan, the Buddhist monastery, in addition to being a practitioner and licensed guide for Forest Therapy (Shinrin Therapy). As a guide for walking tours, I have taken visitors to walk the Kumano Kodo trails, the Nakasendo trail and the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage trail. Being grounded during this COVID-19 crisis, I enjoy gardening, baking bread in my new Japanese bread-maker and going for walks around 'my' village. Take care, keep well, stay safe!

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