Yamadera in Winter

Mountain temple in snow and ice

Alena Eckelmann Jan 07, 2013 - 2 min read

Caves carved into the volcanic rock of the mountain were used for prayer and ascetic practice in the old days

Konpon-chodo, Yamadera's main temple hall, is located at the foot of the mountain

After passing through the San-mon Gate, an exhausting climb up the hill starts. In winter it is even harder!

Emma-O, the Japanese Buddhist god of the underworld (left) is sharing this hut with Jizo Bodhisattva (right). They look so similar but the former is condemning souls while the latter is saving them

One can just make out the stone steps underneath the snow masses

Wooden tablets (fuda) placed at sacred spots by pilgrims

Ice and snow covering absolutely everything on this cold winter day in February

The Nio-mon Gate is the entrance to the temple complex on the summit.

Kaisan-do where Ennin, the monk who founded the temple in 860, is enshrined

One of the three biggest stone lanterns in Japan is set in front of Okuno-in, the temple on the summit

The temple behind the large stone lantern

Godai-do, a terrace perched on the side of a cliff, attracts many pilgrims judging by the many senja-fuda (stickers) you find there

The view over the surrounding area from Godai-do is just as stunning in winter as it is in summer

Visiting Yamadera in winter? No problem as long as you wear the right shoes and warm winter clothes!

This "Mountain Temple" is one of Yamagata Prefecture's most famous landmarks and it is exactly what the name promises - a temple in the mountains. There are several temple structures located at the foot of the mountain and on top, and a long flight of stone steps lined by stone lanterns connect them.

Famous 17th century poet Matsuo Basho visited Yamadera too, although in warmer season, and he promptly penned a haiku about the voice of cicada. There is even a memorial stone to Basho by the entrance to Yamadera.

The icy winter landscape only adds to the natural beauty of this place, although the ascetics of old who sat in meditation in one of the caves carved in the rocks will have had other things on their minds. In recent years Yamagata has become known as a mecca for Shugendo and this spiritual tradition is well alive around the Dewa Sanzan mountains, yet here in Yamadera there don't seem to be anymore ascetics these days.

Walking up the stone steps deeply covered in snow is quite strenuous but it is an unusual winter experience with some spiritual flair. You have to bring good boots to make it up the icy path, and there is no option of wara booth like you have in winter on Haguro-san. Here is another account of a fellow writer about his visit and how he conquered Yamadera in winter.

If you happen to go on a skiing holiday to Zao Onsen in winter and you need a break from the slopes and the famous "Snow Monsters", then take time out for a half-day trip to Yamadera. A visit to Yamadera in winter is a great choice on your Yamagata Winter Adventures itinerary!

More info

Find out more about Yamadera Temple.

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Founder of Kii Monogatari, my story and the story of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. Originally from East Germany, I came to Tokyo, via Berlin and London, in 2005. In summer 2011 I moved by choice to remote Kumano in the south of the Kii Peninsula where I live, work and play now, and explore every da...